Innovation

Twelve Topaz is a pioneering social enterprise that breathes new life into the iconic banig weaving heritage of the Antique province in the Philippines. In the northernmost town of Libertad, bordering Aklan, the tradition of intricately handweaving banig mats and accessories from pandan and bariw leaves has flourished for generations. This indigenous craft finds its roots in pre-colonial times when the Ati people wove banig in the Ati Cave even before the Spanish arrival. While the abundant bariw plant from Libertad's mountains has long been the region's primary weaving material, this rich cultural heritage was slowly dissipating. The unique banig tradition faced an alarming decline with an aging population of artisanal weavers and no initiatives to train youth.

It was this realization that inspired Izza Arnaez to establish Twelve Topaz upon returning to Manila. Having witnessed firsthand the daily struggles of Libertad's banig weavers who relied on this craft as their sole livelihood, Izza recognized an opportunity. She saw untapped potential in marketing these exquisite handmade products to a wider audience while empowering and sustaining the community of weavers.

In partnership with master weaver Inday Salvacion and other local artisans, Twelve Topaz is innovating the centuries-old banig craft. By co-creating contemporary yet functional designs tailored to modern tastes, the social enterprise is elevating banig into a flourishing industry. What truly sets Twelve Topaz apart is their adherence to preserving the meticulous traditional 10-step bariw weaving process:

Step 1: Pagsasa

The process begins with harvesting the bariw leaves by cutting them from the plant using a sharp, arc-shaped blade called a sanggot. For taller bariw plants, weavers use a slender bamboo pole to reach greater heights.

Step 2: Paghapnig

The freshly cut bariw leaves are gathered into bundles of 20-30 pieces each. Some weavers wear gloves to protect against the thorns lining the leaves and stems.

Step 3: Pagriras

The next crucial step is removing the thorns along the edges and central ridge. By stripping off the middle ridge, each bariw leaf is divided into two strips.

Step 4: Pagbulad

The leaves are then sun-dried under direct sunlight to achieve their rich, shiny brown tone and strengthen the fibers for weaving.

Step 5: Pagpalpag

In the evening hours, the dried leaves undergo pagpalpag—a gradual beating against a flat stone using a wooden sampok club until they become soft and pliable.

Step 6: Paglikid

Softening the bariw is the most difficult pre-weaving stage. Weavers roll and re-roll the leaves to maintain their suppleness in a process called paglikid.

Step 7: Pagbuntay

The rolled bariw leaves are then carefully unwound and straightened out in preparation for sizing.

Step 8: Pagkulhad

By passing the bariw through a shedding tool called a kulhadan, the desired widths of the weaving strands are attained.

Step 9: Pagkyupis

In this stage, the sized strands are folded in half, creating kyupis bundles of four strands each in perpendicular pairs with the brown outer sides facing out.

Step 10: Taytay and Pagrara

Finally, the intricate "rara" or weaving process begins. Using the prepared kyupis bundles, the weavers interlace the horizontal and vertical bariw strands in precise patterns to create the iconic banig design.

What makes Twelve Topaz truly innovative is its dual purpose—to generate sustainable livelihoods for the weavers of Antique while championing their traditional skills locally. By co-creating modern, functional banig products and accessories tailored to contemporary tastes, the social enterprise assists the weaving community in elevating their craft into a viable social enterprise. At its core, Twelve Topaz is driven by the mission of empowering local artisans, improving their economic opportunities, and ensuring this unique Filipino handloom tradition endures for generations to come

Twelve Topaz pop-up booth at De La Salle University-Manila and the selection of banig products available.

Inspiration

The idea behind producing environmentally friendly products using traditional banig weaving came from Izza’s firsthand experience witnessing the challenges skilled weavers encounter in Antique, Philippines. The founder's primary motivation stemmed from observing the decrease of this craft and its effect on poverty reduction. "Baig weaving is a significant economic activity in Libertad, often serving as the sole source of income for families," she states. "The tradition, however, is gradually diminishing as a result of insufficient education for younger cohorts and the presence of more affordable plastic substitutes." Izza aimed to hit two birds with one stone—to revive this slowly diminishing art form while at the same time ensuring sustainable means of livelihood. “I wanted to help use my privilege to empower and continue the weaving tradition," she shares. Her objective was to revive this craft by collaborating with skilled weavers, such as Manang Inday Salvacion, who has more than 50 years of experience in weaving. Her inspiration was ignited by her ancestral heritage and witnessing the adversities weavers faced directly. "The transition from farming to weaving, driven by desperation rather than choice, was deeply concerning." They live in extreme poverty, barely making ends meet. The revival of banig offers a chance to alleviate poverty by promoting economic empowerment.

Moreover, Izza’s vision followed the triple bottom line (TBL) framework, including people, planet, and profit. "Being a social entrepreneur entails purposefully undertaking every action to generate a beneficial influence," she asserts. These ideals were applied through partnerships with craftspeople, investment in fair salaries to enhance their abilities, and the utilization of sustainable natural materials. Although the local concept was innovative, Izza also got inspiration from socially conscious businesses around the world that effectively managed the trade-off between profitability and social impact. For instance, the bag brand Tentree demonstrated this by planting 10 trees for each sale. She challenged herself by thinking, "If other nations were able to establish prosperous social enterprises, why were we unable to implement that model in the Philippines effectively?" Ultimately, the concept behind Twelve Topaz arose from a desire to improve and elevate cultural norms, alleviate poverty, and promote sustainabilit—a powerful convergence of social and environmental influence.

Overall impact

Twelve Topaz implemented sustainability not as a supplementary business feature but as a primary driving factor that fuels the business. They built their company using sustainability as their foundation. They derived their business model by empowering these indigenous artisan weavers and showing us the possibilities of considering our heritage as a source of our products. They considered sustainability not a problem but an opportunity to promote change while still doing business.

Their sustainability initiative predominantly centers on the conservation of the banig weaving skill and its transmission to subsequent generations. Twelve Topaz places significant emphasis on the quality of their banig products, making preserving workmanship a key objective for the enterprise. As a result, the banig items also incorporate pandan leaves, which are widely used in food production and various products. Pandan leaves undergo a process of trimming their serrated edges, being cut to the appropriate size, air-drying, dyeing, drying once more, and then being woven into durable, flexible, and smooth mats that are frequently found in Filipino households. The expanded methodology was discussed earlier in the article.

Furthermore, Twelve Topaz also boasts a commitment to afforestation for each item purchased. This kind of devotion is infrequently observed in bag production, as it represents a substantial commitment. In addition, they assert that they exclusively manufacture limited quantities of products to guarantee a negligible ecological impact, a challenge that often arises in large-scale production.

The success of the business is divided and observed into two different categories: short-term and long-term. Twelve Topaz encapsulates the prior category by being a platform for our indigenous artists to have an additional income source by doing something they have spent their entire lives doing. The latter category is seen through Twelve Topaz's ability to be a catalyst in allowing consumers to understand what it means to be Filipino, what skill it takes for us to achieve such a product, and how important it is that we take the effort to support the diverse and rich cultural background that our country has.

Business benefit

Twelve Topaz proved to be more than an enterprise—they are the blueprint for future businesses and generations. At the heart of their mission, they committed to addressing some of the pressing issues of our generation, as outlined in the Sustainable Development Goals. This commitment did not stem from a desire to increase profit but from recognizing the importance of making a difference in shaping lives and communities.

First, they turned their attention to Goal 1: No Poverty. The artisans weaver, at first, believed that their skills were unmarketable and undesirable, they doubted that they’d ever have a spot in the marketplace. Twelve Topaz extended their lifeline and provided them a chance and spotlight to showcase their expertise, affirming and empowering them that their traditional practices are important and marketable. It was the community's path to self-sufficiency, a way of eradicating poverty. Their initiative did not stop there, they recognized the role women have in transforming and bridging the gap between communities, they also pioneered Goal 5: Gender Equality. This showcases how fostering a community centered on empowerment promotes gender equality and shows how dreams and aspirations are not dictated by gender.

In their pursuit of fair business and trading practices, it is evident that they embodied Goal 8: Decent Work & Economic Growth. They provided artisans a different avenue to showcase their skills and products both in the local and international scene—facilitating access to a broader audience and market. Similarly, their initiative to preserve a dying tradition and render it suitable for the market was an ode to Goal 9: Industry. They understood that innovation is more than creating something new; it is creating resilient systems and infrastructure that honor traditional practices while actively embracing the future. Lastly, the enterprise's cooperative and collaborative nature and its purpose of creating sustainable livelihoods indicate that it emphasizes Goal 17: Partnership for the Goals. They understood that creating sustainable, inclusive, and resilient communities was not a solo endeavor, but a collective effort. We come to realize that Twelve Topaz is not just a business—they created a movement where when passion meets purpose, the impossible becomes a reality for many.

Social and environmental benefit

Social Impact

Twelve Topaz's innovation has profoundly impacted society, particularly in preserving cultural heritage, promoting sustainable livelihoods, and empowering local communities. From a young age, Izza Arnaez, the founder, was exposed to social inequalities and issues, which fueled her strong sense of mission.

Safeguarding culture, tradition, and skills has been a cornerstone of Twelve Topaz's endeavors. The banig weaving tradition in Libertad, Antique, was slowly dying, with the aging population of weavers and a lack of initiatives to pass on the craft to younger generations, causing many weavers to shift to farming. Twelve Topaz has revitalized this centuries-old art form, ensuring the cultural legacy is passed to future generations. The enterprise has involved the youth, re-introducing banig weaving and fostering a sense of pride in the community's heritage. As Izza stated, "Before Twelve Topaz, the weavers were unaware that their craft was important and had a market." Twelve Topaz has empowered the community and preserved a vital aspect of their cultural identity by providing skills training, facilitating access to broader markets, and elevating the weavers' sense of dignity and self-worth.

Moreover, Twelve Topaz has promoted sustainable livelihoods by offering the weavers fair trade practices and economic opportunities. The enterprise has contributed to alleviating poverty in the region, enabling the weavers, especially women, to earn a decent income and improve their living standards. Izza emphasized the importance of co-ownership, stating, "In social enterprise and in working with the community, it is a collaborative effort because we all have one mission." According to her, viewing and treating the communities as more than beneficiaries and as indispensable partners instead is crucial in realizing the essence of social entrepreneurship. This approach has fostered a strong sense of community among the weavers, leading to the formation of a federation of 50 women weavers in Libertad. Twelve Topaz's commitment to community empowerment has been pivotal in preserving cultural heritage and promoting social equity.

Environmental Impact

At the core of Twelve Topaz's environmental efforts is its utilization of raw, sustainable materials such as pandan leaves and abaca fibers. By consciously choosing these natural resources, the enterprise avoids contributing to the detrimental environmental impact associated with conventional manufacturing processes. Additionally, Twelve Topaz has implemented a forward-thinking approach to strengthen the sustainability of its supply chain. As Izza highlighted, "In terms of sustainability in planting the leaves, we are working on that." The enterprise has recently started planting abaca, which will be used as a raw material for its future products, fostering a cyclical and self-sustaining production model. Furthermore, Twelve Topaz's dedication to environmental stewardship exemplifies its initiative to plant a tree for every item sold. This commitment to environmental conservation and carbon offsetting demonstrates the enterprise's holistic approach to sustainability, encompassing both social and ecological dimensions.

Notably, Twelve Topaz's focus on handmade, intentional production sets it apart from the fast-paced and wasteful practices of the fast fashion industry. The fashion industry is known to be one of the most significant contributors to carbon emissions, water consumption, and waste each year. Through its conscious efforts to avoid trend-driven mass production, the social enterprise reduces waste and promotes a more mindful and intentional approach to consumption. As Izza emphasized, "Quality is the most impactful versus quantity." This philosophy not only minimizes Twelve Topaz's environmental footprint but also encourages a shift towards conscious consumerism.

By prioritizing sustainable materials, minimizing environmental impact, and exploring innovative solutions, Twelve Topaz is leading by example and demonstrating that businesses can be both socially responsible and environmentally conscious.

Interview

Izza Arnaez, Founder